How do I field strip a SMF / SnG / AR / GB? 
Disclaimer: Strider Knives is not in the business of putting your knife back together for you, therefore they recommend you do not field strip the knife. Field Strip your Strider folder at your own risk. If you can’t put it back together, then don’t field strip it.  

Field stripping a Strider folder before it’s had time to break in a bit is a waste of time.

The area where the washers contact the blade is the area that has to wear in. Bead blast blades need for that area to wear down/polish up before break in is complete. This polishing takes time, sometimes 300 to 1000 opening/closing cycles.

SMF / SnG Gen IV and above (bull pivot)
Tools:
1. Lube. Just about anything will do.
2. One 1/8” hex wrench
3. One T-10 Torx wrench
4. A good high heat Soldering iron. I use one of those dual range versions sold at Radio Shack. This may or may not be needed to break down the (blue) loctite used on the pivot. BTW, it is very unlikely you’ll have to do this after the first time…
5. A good flat blade screwdriver. I use a 5/16” Craftsman. You do not need a spanner…

Steps to Field Strip:
1. After warming up your soldering iron, insert the tip into the hole in the male side of the pivot (on the non-lock side). Hold it there for 10-15 minutes.
2. Remove the soldering iron, insert your 1/8” hex wrench into the lock side of the pivot. Use your flat blade screwdriver to loosen the half of the pivot on the non-lock side. Once that’s loose, remove the male (lock side) of the pivot. Leave the blade and the half of the pivot on the non-lock side in place.
3. Using your T-10 Torx wrench, remove the 4 screws holding the knife together. If you’d like, you can remove the clip. The clip on SMFs exert a small amount of pressure on the lock, which can make re-assembly a little bit harder. Not enough to matter, in my book, but YMMV…
4. Lay the SMF down on the G-10 side. Lift off the Ti (lock) side. Be careful to not lose your washer…
5. Remove both washers, the male side of the pivot, and the blade from the G10 side of your SMF. Using hot water and good dishwashing soap, wash all parts thoroughly. Let them dry.
6. Once dry, clean the areas on the lock side and non-lock side of the Ti and G10 slabs (especially the G10 slab) where the pivot is inserted of any crap left. It’s usually black crispy stuff. Removing this crap can have a positive effect on blade centering, a good thing…
7. Lube the part of the pivot that goes in the hole in the blade. Lube the hole in the blade that the pivot goes through. Lube the ball detent. Lube the areas of the blade that contact the washers. Lube the areas of the washers that contact the blade. Some people lube both sides of the washers. Washers normally rotate (very slowly), so that may be a good thing. Some use lots of lube, some use just a tiny amount. I prefer a medium amount of lube applied to everything besides the slabs. Again, YMMV…
8. Re-assemble your SMF. Stick the female side of the pivot into the G10 slab. Place one washer on the pivot, then the blade, then the other washer.
9. Place the lock side slab in place. Wiggle the blade and the slab around until the female side of the pivot comes through.
10. Tighten the pivot a little. Insert the four frame screws, tighten them a little. Check the pivot, to see if all looks centered, etc. Tighten the three frame screws (not too much), then open and close the knife a few times, HARD. This helps seat the blade and pivot, I think. I use that step with all frame lock folders, it works. Tighten the pivot to taste. Open and close the knife a few times, HARD. Tighten the pivot to taste. In my experience, no loctite needs to be added.

SnG Gen I – III
Tools:
1. Lube. Just about anything will do.
2. One T-8 and two T-10 Torx wrenches.
3. A good high heat Soldering iron. I use one of those dual range versions sold at Radio Shack. This may or may not be needed to break down the (blue) loctite used on the pivot.

Steps to Field Strip:
1. After warming up your soldering iron, insert the tip into the T-10 Torx insertion point in the pivot on the lock side. This is the male side of the pivot. Hold it there for 10-15 minutes.
2. Remove the soldering iron, insert your T-10 Torx wrenches into both sides of the pivot. Holding the non-lock side in place, loosen and remove the half of the pivot on the lock side. Leave the blade and the half of the pivot on the non-lock side in place.
3. Using your T-8 Torx wrench, remove the 3 screws holding the knife together. If you’d like, you can remove the clip. The clip on SnGs exerts pressure on the lock, which can make re-assembly a little bit harder. Not enough to matter, in my book, but YMMV…
4. Lay the SnG down on the G-10 side. Lift off the Ti (lock) side. Be careful to not lose your washer…
5. Remove both washers, the female side of the pivot, and the blade from the G10 side of your SnG. Using hot water and good dishwashing soap, wash the parts thoroughly. Let them dry.
6. Once dry, clean the areas on the lock side and non-lock side of the Ti and G10 slabs (especially the G10 slab) where the pivot is inserted of any crap left. It’s usually black crispy stuff. Removing this crap can have a positive effect on blade centering, a good thing…
7. Lube the part of the pivot that goes in the hole in the blade. Lube the hole in the blade that the pivot goes through. Lube the ball detent. Lube the areas of the blade that contact the washers. Lube the areas of the washers that contact the blade. Some people lube both sides of the washers. Washers normally rotate (very slowly), so that may be a good thing. Some use lots of lube, some use just a tiny amount. I prefer a medium amount of lube applied to everything besides the slabs. Again, YMMV…
8. Re-assemble your SnG. Stick the female side of the pivot into the G10 slab. Place one washer on the pivot, then the blade, then the other washer.
9. Place the lock side slab in place. Wiggle the blade and the slab around until the female side of the pivot come through.
10. Tighten the pivot a little. Insert the three frame screws, tighten them a little. Check the pivot, to see if all looks centered, etc. Tighten the three frame screws (not too much), then open and close the knife a few times, HARD. This helps seat the blade and pivot, I think. I use that step with all frame lock folders, it works. Tighten the pivot to taste. Open and close the knife a few times, HARD. Tighten the pivot to taste. In my experience, no loctite needs to be added.

AR/GB
Tools:
1. Lube: Use your own preference
2. One 1/8” hex wrench
3. One T-9 Torx wrench
4. One T-10 Torx wrench
5. A Soldering iron with a very narrow tip, so you can fit it into the handle screws.
6. A flat head screwdriver size 5/16". For those that have one, a spanner.

Steps to Feild Strip:
1. Warm up your iron and insert the tip into the male side of the pivot (non-lock side). Hold it there for 10-15 minues.
2. Remove the soldering iron, insert your 1/8” hex wrench into the lock side of the pivot. Use your flat blade screwdriver(or spanner) to loosen the half of the pivot on the non-lock side. Once that’s loose, remove the male(lock side) of the pivot. Leave the blade and the half of the pivot on the non-lock side in place.
3. Using your T-9 Torx wrench, remove the 6 screws holding the G10 slabs on the Ti liners of the knife.Than remove the Clip screw with your T-10 Torx wrench(This step is not necessary, only if you want to clean under the G10).
4. Now slide your blade out and careful to note which side the big washer is on and which side the small washer is on. Now wash all parts with hot water and dish washer soap thoroughly and dry them.
5. Lube the part of the pivot that goes in the hole in the blade. Lube the hole in the blade that the pivot goes through. Lube the ball detent. Lube the areas of the blade that contact the washers. Lube the areas of the washers that contact the blade. Some people lube both sides of the washers. Washers normally rotate (very slowly), so that may be a good thing. Some use lots of lube, some use just a tiny amount.
6. Re-assemble your GB. Attach your scales onto the liners with your 6 screws, than attach your pocket clip to the scale. Here's where it can get a bit tricky, place one washer over the pivot hole than slide your blade with the other washer on top. Attach the female side of the pivot carefully through both. Than the made side into the female. You will most likely need to wiggle your blade and parts to get all in correctly.
7. Than tighten all screws and pivot to your liking. Attach lok-tite to your pivot if like. Just a few drops of Blue Lok-tite into the pivot should do it. Open and close your blade a few times and wipe off the excess Lok-tite. Lay it down to cure for the appropriate time.